Cosmetic post-frame buildings transfer their structural weight-load to the surrounding soil with articles embedded in concrete. Footings consist of a layer of gravel covered by wet concrete, in that a wooden post is placed. The footing protects wooden poles in direct contact with the floor and prevents the start of wood rot and water damage. Proper foundation wall footing prevents breakage resulting from the weight-load of a construction settling. Pressure-treated wooden poles may be used to support the bases of porches, decks and houses.
Check the local building codes to make sure it is permissible to build a foundation supported with wooden poles and embedded concrete slabs. The codes may ask that you use a specific sort of fill material or timber post kind, and you may have to buy building licenses. Some regions will have post depth requirements, for example 4 feet or 6 inches below the frost line, whichever is greater. Additionally, talk to a contractor or structural engineer to make sure you will be using the appropriate kind of post for your building requirements.
Call 811 or visit call811.com to have any underground electricity lines, water main pipes and other underground utilities located and marked in your lawn. Attempting to do so can result in costly utility repairs or deadly injury.
Dig a hole that’s 12 inches in diameter and 6 feet deep (or dig according to the regional building codes if the measurements are different) with a shovel or power auger. If you live in an area in which the floor completely freezes over the winter, flare out the bottom of the hole with a long pry bar.
Fill the hole with 3 inches of gravel to aid in water . Utilize a long-handled tamper instrument to push the dirt, and also out its surface when compacting it.
Drill two staggered holes in the post with a 1/2-inch drill bit which can be 1 inch apart from each other on a diagonal line. Make 1 hole 1 inch from the right side of this post and another hole 1 inch from the left side. Add 1 piece of #4 rebar via each drilled hole and then leave an equal quantity of the rebar revealing on either side of this post.
Pour a 4-inch layer of premixed concrete to the hole to make the footing. Wait for the concrete.
Position the post in the center of this hole, and make sure that it is straight. Have a helper hold it in place as you pour the mixed concrete to the hole. Fill the pit with concrete, and cease when the surface of this mixed concrete is 5 inches above floor level. Wait for the concrete.
Dig out the area for the concrete slab that is going to move around the wooden post. Nail together 2-by-4s to create a wooden concrete pouring form in the shape of the concrete slab. Insert bets into the ground on the exterior of this shape and use C-clamps to hold them in place. The bets will hold the 2-by-4 framework up so it can support the weight of the wet concrete when it is poured.
Gently water down the concrete slab region. Pour to the form. Use a tamper and tamp down the wet concrete to compact it. Use a straight 2-by-4 as a screed and level out the cover of the concrete. Pull the extended thin border of this 2-by-4 over the face of the wet concrete to ensure it is level and even. Run the concrete over the previously set concrete of this post footer and even out the surface area of the slab. If you’re making a large concrete slab, like you for a basement, have a helper rake out the concrete behind you as you pull on the 2-by-4 screed across the concrete toward him.
Cut regeneration joints or make grooves in the concrete every 6 or 4 inches, depending on the regional building codes. Wet the face of the concrete two times per day for three days after it is poured to allow it to cure properly.